Cham Towers Ninh Thuận: Exploring Champa Heritage in the Land of Sun | MLifeOn - Lifestyles Magazines

Cham Towers Ninh Thuận: Exploring Champa Heritage in the Land of Sun

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Cham Towers Ninh Thuận: Exploring Champa Heritage in the Land of Sun
Ninh Thuận welcomes you not only with blue seas and white sands but also with ancient, mysterious architectural structures. These are the towering Cham Towers, testaments to the brilliant Champa civilization that once flourished. This land of sun and wind is home to many important Cham tower clusters, once the heart of the ancient Panduranga kingdom. These towers are not just historical relics but also cultural symbols, an inseparable part of Ninh Thuận.

Even the official name of the central city, "Phan Rang - Tháp Chàm," links the modern locality with its ancient heritage. This shows that the Cham towers are not merely tourist attractions but also the foundational identity of the entire region.

We will explore the three most representative tower clusters: the magnificent Po Klong Garai, the legendary Po Rome, and the ancient Hòa Lai. Each site holds its own historical stories and unique architectural beauty, waiting to be unveiled.

Po Klong Garai: Symbol of Perfect Cham Architecture

The Po Klong Garai tower cluster stands majestically on Trầu Hill (Lauh Rò) in Đô Vinh ward. This location is about 7 to 9 km northwest of the center of Phan Rang - Tháp Chàm city, making it very convenient for visitors.

The towers were built in the late 13th and early 14th centuries during the reign of King Jaya Sinhavarman III (known to the Vietnamese as Chế Mân). The complex honors King Po Klong Garai, who reigned from 1151 to 1205 and made significant contributions to the Cham people.

This is a unique architectural ensemble consisting of three main structures: the Main Tower (Kalan) at 20.5m high, the Fire Tower (Kosagrha) at 9.31m high, and the Gate Tower (Gopura) at 8.56m high. The entire complex is built of dark red baked bricks, skillfully stacked according to the principle of gradually tapering towards the top.

The brick bonding technique is very special, believed to use resin from the Dipterocarpus alatus tree, creating solid walls where mortar joints are almost invisible. The Main Tower, the heart of the complex, has its main entrance facing east, featuring an impressive relief of the six-armed dancing god Siva.

The other three entrances are false doors, decorated with statues of meditating deities. Inside the tower rests a stone statue of the sacred bull Nandin, Siva's mount, and a Mukhalinga (a Linga with a face) worshiping King Po Klong Garai.

The Fire Tower, located to the south, is distinguished by its boat-shaped curved roof, reflecting Sa Huỳnh culture and Brahmanic beliefs. This place was used to store offerings, ritual garments, and maintain the sacred fire during ceremonies.

The Gate Tower has two entrances aligned on an East-West axis, adorned with intricate carvings, serving as the main entrance during ancient ceremonies. The Po Klong Garai tower complex is considered the most beautiful remaining Cham tower group in Vietnam, representing the pinnacle of Champa architectural and sculptural art.

More than just an architectural monument, Po Klong Garai is a vibrant center of belief and culture for the Cham community. The fact that major festivals, especially the Katê Festival, have been held here annually for centuries is the clearest evidence.

This demonstrates a continuous flow of culture and religion, maintained by the community and recognized by the state through its designation as a National Historical and Cultural Relic in 1979 and a Special National Monument in 2016. Po Klong Garai is truly the unceasing cultural and spiritual heart of the Cham people in Ninh Thuận.

Po Rome: The Last Tower and the Legendary King

Unlike Po Klong Garai, the Po Rome tower is located in Hậu Sanh hamlet, Phước Hữu commune, Ninh Phước district. The tower is situated about 15km south of Phan Rang city.

This is the latest Cham tower, built in the 17th century during the reign of King Po Rome (1627-1651).3 Po Rome tower also marks the last brick architectural work of the Cham people in the Panduranga region.

The most distinctive feature of Po Rome tower is its dedication to King Po Rome himself, who was deified after his death. This differs from most other Cham towers, which typically worship Hindu deities like Siva.

King Po Rome is revered by the Cham people for his significant contributions to agricultural development and irrigation systems, bringing prosperity to the people. Building a tower to worship him shows special reverence, viewing him as a protective deity.

This shift in the object of worship, from Hindu gods to a deified king, might reflect changes in the spiritual and social life of Champa in later periods. It highlights the importance of local historical figures and royal lineage in Cham beliefs.

Architecturally, Po Rome tower belongs to the late style, somewhat simpler and with less decorative carving than earlier tower complexes. Having undergone several restorations (from 1992-2010), the site currently consists mainly of the main tower and a small shrine.

The main tower is about 8m high, with a square base nearly 8m on each side, comprising 3 tapering tiers and the main entrance facing east. Inside the tower houses the stone statue worshipping King Po Rome in the form of a Mukhalinga, about 1.2m tall.

This statue was recognized as a National Treasure in 2020, affirming its unique historical and artistic value. Beside the king's statue is a bust of Queen Po Bia Sancan (0.75m high), and outside is a statue of Queen Sucih.

Like Po Klong Garai, Po Rome tower still plays an important role in the spiritual life of the Cham people. Many traditional festivals are still held here, such as the tower opening ceremony, rain-praying ceremony, ceremony for the Mother Goddess of the Realm, and also the Katê Festival.

Hòa Lai: The Oldest Beauty and Its Mysteries

Located right next to National Highway 1A, in Ba Tháp hamlet, Bắc Phong commune, Thuận Bắc district, is the Hòa Lai tower cluster. This site is about 15km north of Phan Rang city.

Hòa Lai tower is considered the oldest surviving Cham tower cluster in Ninh Thuận, dating back to the 9th century.3 Some research suggests the towers might have been built from the late 8th to early 9th century, linked to the reign of King Satyavarman.

This tower cluster is a prime example of the unique Hòa Lai architectural style. Characteristics of this style include arches with multiple rounded points or sharp peaks, octagonal pilasters, and intricate decorative motifs like scrolling leaves and the mythical Garuda bird.

Originally, Hòa Lai consisted of three towers, hence the local name Ba Tháp (Three Towers). However, due to time and historical events, the Middle Tower has completely collapsed, leaving only its foundation.

Currently, only the South Tower and North Tower remain standing. Both towers have a square ground plan, a multi-tiered structure tapering towards the top, and a single main entrance facing east.

Hòa Lai tower holds immense historical and archaeological significance. Many valuable artifacts have been discovered here, including the Hòa Lai stele, recognized as a National Treasure.

The tower cluster was also recognized as a National Historical Relic in 1997 and later as a Special National Monument in 2016, concurrently with Po Klong Garai. This signifies equal recognition of the historical and artistic importance of both tower complexes.

However, a sad paradox exists at Hòa Lai. Despite its immense historical and artistic value and highest classification, the monument's current condition is alarming.

The towers show signs of deterioration, with bricks flaking off, the grounds overgrown with weeds, and the entrance gate often locked. More notably, unlike Po Klong Garai, almost no worship activities or festivals by the local Cham community take place at Hòa Lai.

One hypothesis suggests the towers were abandoned long ago, possibly after a war with the Khmer. The contrast between the great heritage value and the state of neglect, lacking community connection, raises significant questions about the conservation and promotion of this special monument's value.

Exploring the Unique Construction Techniques of the Cham

One of the marvels contributing to the longevity of the Cham towers is the unique construction technique of the ancient people. The primary material used was dark red baked brick, possessing incredible durability that helped the structures withstand time and the harsh climate.

Cham bricks have distinct properties not found in ordinary bricks. They have high porosity, allowing for good drainage, a higher silicon content, and contain many plant impurities.

Notably, many broken Cham bricks reveal an unbaked clay core, indicating only the outer shell was fully fired, yet this core does not decay over time. These characteristics contribute to the structures' durability.

The greatest mystery perhaps lies in the binding agent between the bricks. Observing Cham towers, one can hardly see any mortar joints; the bricks are stacked seamlessly and tightly.

The most widely accepted hypothesis is that the ancient Cham used a natural plant resin, possibly from the Dipterocarpus alatus tree, to bond the bricks. This resin, when dried, formed an extremely strong adhesive.

However, this remains an incompletely solved mystery. Some studies haven't found clear traces of organic binders, leading to other theories like meticulously grinding the bricks flat before stacking, or utilizing the properties of unfired bricks to self-bond upon drying.

Whatever the method, this construction technique demonstrates the masterful skill and incredible creativity of ancient Cham artisans. It allowed them to create architectural works that were not only aesthetically beautiful but also extraordinarily sturdy.

Besides construction techniques, the art of sculpture and decoration is also a remarkable highlight. Patterns and reliefs were intricately carved, either directly onto the brick walls after construction or created separately and then attached.

The motifs are incredibly rich, reflecting the religious beliefs and cosmology of the Cham people. They include images of Hindu deities (Siva, Uma), deified kings, graceful Apsara dancers, mythical creatures like the sacred bull Nandin, the mythical bird Garuda, lions, elephants, along with floral patterns and symbols of the sacred flame.

Katê Festival: A Vibrant Cham Cultural Space

If you happen to visit Ninh Thuận around late September or early October (Gregorian calendar), you'll have the chance to immerse yourself in the Katê Festival. This is the largest and most important festival of the year for the Cham community following Brahmanism (Ahier).

The festival officially takes place on the 1st day of the 7th month according to the Cham calendar. The main rituals are solemnly performed at the temples and towers, especially at the Po Klong Garai complex.

Additionally, ceremonies are also held at Po Rome tower and within Cham Brahman villages.The Katê Festival is an occasion for the Cham people to commemorate the merits of deities, kings who contributed to the nation like Po Klong Garai and Po Rome, and ancestors.

The main rituals typically include the procession of the deities' and kings' costumes from the village up to the tower. This is followed by the tower opening ceremony, the statue bathing ceremony (Mukhalinga) and dressing the statues in new attire, and finally the Grand Ceremony praying for peace.

The Cham people pray for a new year with favorable weather, bountiful harvests, and a peaceful, prosperous life. The festival atmosphere is incredibly vibrant and bustling with characteristic sounds and colors.

Visitors can enjoy graceful traditional Cham dances like the fan dance, water pot dance, or the powerful Siva dance. The lively rhythm of the Ginăng drums blends with the melodious sound of the Saranai trumpet, creating a unique musical space.

In Cham villages, many lively cultural activities and folk sports also take place. The Katê Festival is not just a religious ritual but also an opportunity for the Cham community to strengthen solidarity and express pride in their ethnic cultural identity.

It's also a fantastic chance for tourists to authentically experience and explore the living cultural heritage of the Cham people in Ninh Thuận. Katê proves that Cham culture resides not only in ancient relics but continues to be preserved and actively promoted in contemporary life.

Ninh Thuận Cham Tower Travel Guide (A-Z)

To make your exploration of Ninh Thuận's Cham Towers more complete, consider the following useful information:

Getting There and Getting Around:

  • To Ninh Thuận: You can fly to Cam Ranh Airport (Khánh Hòa) and then take a car for about 60km to Phan Rang. The train is also a good option, stopping at Tháp Chàm station near the city. Sleeper buses on North-South routes or from Ho Chi Minh City/Da Lat are also very common.
  • Getting Around Ninh Thuận: Renting a motorbike in Phan Rang is the most flexible way to explore the tower clusters and nearby attractions. Taxis or renting a car with a driver are other convenient options.
  • Directions to the Towers:
  • Po Klong Garai: From the center of Phan Rang (Phủ Hà 5-way intersection), follow Road 21/8 (QL27) towards Da Lat, cross the railway overpass, turn left onto Bác Ái street to reach the site.
  • Po Rome: From Phan Rang, follow National Highway 1A south for about 15km to Phước Hữu commune (Ninh Phước district). Ask locals for directions to Hậu Sanh village and the hill with the tower.
  • Hòa Lai: From Phan Rang, follow National Highway 1A north for about 15km (towards Nha Trang). Pass through Bắc Phong commune (Thuận Bắc district), and you will see the tower cluster right beside the road on your right.

Ticket Information and Opening Hours:

Knowing the practical details helps you plan your visit better. Below is a summary table for the main tower complexes:

Table 1: Visiting Information for Main Cham Tower Complexes in Ninh Thuận

Tower Complex

Address

Opening Hours

Adult Ticket

Child Ticket

Notes

Po Klong Garai

Trầu Hill, Đô Vinh Ward, Phan Rang - Tháp Chàm City

7:30 AM - 5:30 PM

20,000 VND

10,000 VND

. Electric car service available (25,000 VND/round trip). Some older sources state 15,000 VND.2

Po Rome

Hậu Sanh Hamlet, Phước Hữu Commune, Ninh Phước District

Needs update

Needs update

Needs update

Official information on opening hours and entrance fees not found. Usually accessible for free during daylight hours.

Hòa Lai (Ba Tháp)

Ba Tháp Hamlet, Bắc Phong Commune, Thuận Bắc District (beside NH1A)

Needs update

Needs update

Needs update

Information on opening hours and tickets unclear. Gate might be locked. Advised to view from outside or contact Ninh Thuận Provincial Relics Management Board.

Note: Ticket prices and opening hours may change. It's recommended to check for updated information before visiting.

Compiling information into a table makes it easy to compare and prepare for your trip, especially for quick reference on mobile. This table also highlights the lack of public information regarding visits to Po Rome and Hòa Lai.

Visiting Tips:

  • Attire: Choose modest, respectful clothing, especially when entering the main tower areas which are places of worship.
  • Behavior: Maintain cleanliness, do not litter. Respect the spiritual space, avoid loud talking or boisterous laughter. Do not write, draw, or carve on the monument surfaces.
  • Photography: Photos are generally allowed in the outer areas. If you wish to take photos inside the worship towers, ask for permission from the management or follow signage (usually restricted).
  • Weather: Ninh Thuận is very sunny and windy. Prepare wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, sunscreen, and bring enough drinking water. The ideal visiting times are early morning or late afternoon to avoid the harsh sun.

Attractive Nearby Destinations:

Your Cham Tower exploration will be more enjoyable when combined with nearby attractions:

  • Cham Craft Villages: Don't miss Bàu Trúc Pottery Village (Phước Dân town, Ninh Phước) - the oldest pottery village in Southeast Asia, where you can watch artisans create unique handmade pottery. Nearby is Mỹ Nghiệp Brocade Weaving Village with its exquisite products. Combining visits to Cham towers and these craft villages offers a comprehensive view of Cham culture, from architectural heritage to living handicraft arts.
  • Vineyards: Ninh Thuận is famous for its fruit-laden vineyards. You can visit Ba Mọi Vineyard (near Bàu Trúc, Mỹ Nghiệp) or vineyards in the Thái An area (near Vĩnh Hy) to sightsee, take photos, and enjoy fresh grapes and grape syrup.
  • Beaches and Nature: Combine your trip with exploring beautiful beaches like Ninh Chữ, Bình Sơn, or famous scenic spots like Vĩnh Hy Bay, Hang Rái (Otter Cave), Nam Cương Sand Dunes, Mũi Dinh.

Conserving Cham Heritage: Challenges and Efforts

Preserving the ancient Cham towers for future generations is an important yet challenging task. The conservation status of the tower clusters in Ninh Thuận varies significantly.

The Po Klong Garai complex is considered relatively intact and fairly well-managed and restored. It has an active Relics Management Board that organizes activities to promote its value, such as art performances, handicraft demonstrations, and welcoming tourists.

Po Rome tower also underwent several restoration phases from 1992 to 2010, helping to restore some auxiliary structures and preserve the main tower. Its current condition is assessed as stable.

Meanwhile, the situation at Hòa Lai tower is much more concerning. Despite its special historical and artistic value and designation as a Special National Monument, this cluster shows serious signs of deterioration. One tower has completely collapsed, the remaining two suffer from weathering and flaking, and the site often appears neglected and poorly maintained.

This disparity partly suggests that conservation efforts might be more focused on sites that attract many tourists and have strong community ties, like Po Klong Garai. Meanwhile, important but "less popular" relics like Hòa Lai have not received attention commensurate with their value.

However, Ninh Thuận province's efforts in preserving Cham heritage cannot be denied. Recognizing the tower clusters as National and Special National Monuments is a crucial step.

Restoration, embellishment, and archaeological excavations have been carried out at various sites, although perhaps not uniformly. The province has also proposed UNESCO recognition for the Ninh Thuận Cham tower complex as a World Heritage site and the Katê Festival as Intangible Cultural Heritage, showing a desire to elevate the heritage's value.

The biggest challenges remain the impact of time and Ninh Thuận's harsh climate. Resources for conservation, especially for restoration using authentic ancient techniques to ensure originality and avoid issues like salt efflorescence (which occurred at other sites ), are limited.

Balancing monument preservation with sustainable tourism development is also a difficult equation. Comprehensive solutions and appropriate attention are needed so that all Cham Tower heritage sites, whether famous or lesser-known, are protected and endure.

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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

  • When is the best time to visit Cham Towers in Ninh Thuận? April to September is the dry season, sunny, suitable for combining beach trips with tower visits. August to October features unique Cham festivals, especially Katê (late Sep - early Oct). Avoid the rainy/stormy season from October to December.
  • How to get to the Cham Towers? You can reach Phan Rang (Ninh Thuận) by plane (via Cam Ranh airport), train (Tháp Chàm station), or bus. From Phan Rang, rent a motorbike or take a taxi to the tower clusters.
  • What are the ticket prices and opening hours for the towers? See details in Table 1 in the Travel Guide section. Note that Po Klong Garai has fixed tickets and hours, while information for Po Rome and Hòa Lai is unclear or they might be freely accessible/viewable from outside.
  • What should I wear when visiting Cham towers? Wear modest, respectful clothing, especially if you plan to enter the worship areas.
  • Can I take photos inside the towers? Photography inside the main worship areas is often restricted to maintain solemnity. Look for signs or ask the management before taking pictures.
  • How long does it take to visit the towers? Po Klong Garai is a large complex with many points of interest, possibly requiring 1-2 hours. Po Rome and Hòa Lai are smaller, taking less time (around 30-60 minutes each).
  • Besides Cham towers, what else is there to do in Ninh Thuận? Ninh Thuận offers many other attractions like Vĩnh Hy Bay, Hang Rái, Ninh Chữ beach, Cà Ná beach, Bình Tiên beach, Nam Cương sand dunes, vineyards, Bàu Trúc pottery village, Mỹ Nghiệp weaving village.
  • What are Ninh Thuận's specialties? What souvenirs can I buy? You can buy fresh grapes, jujubes, Phan Rang garlic, dried seafood, Cà Ná fish sauce. Handmade pottery from Bàu Trúc village or brocade fabric from Mỹ Nghiệp village are also meaningful souvenirs.

Explore Ninh Thuận and its Cham Heritage

The Cham towers in Ninh Thuận are more than just brick and stone structures. They are precious gems, preserving the soul of a brilliant Champa civilization, timeless marks on a land full of sun and wind.

From the perfect beauty of Po Klong Garai, the legendary aura of Po Rome, to the ancient mystery of Hòa Lai, each tower cluster tells its own story, contributing to the diverse and unique cultural tapestry of Vietnam.

Plan your trip to Ninh Thuận to witness these architectural masterpieces firsthand. Listen to the echoes of history, feel the unique Cham cultural atmosphere, and experience the hospitality of the local people.

Exploring Ninh Thuận's Cham Towers is not just a tourist trip, but a journey back to the roots, appreciating the heritage values left by our ancestors. Be responsible tourists, joining hands to preserve the beauty and longevity of these ancient towers.