Located on the border with Cambodia, Tay Ninh appears as a land that feels both familiar and new. Familiar in the peaceful rice fields, rivers, and village markets, yet new in its mountains, forests, and ancient sites that hold long stories of history and culture.
With MLifeOn, let us listen to the people of Tay Ninh as they share their tales of the past, their culture, and the resilience of life in this sunlit borderland.
Silent history in the sun-and-wind land of Tay Ninh
On the map of the Southeast region, Tay Ninh is a peaceful land with a significant geographical position. With its strategic location, this land serves as a gateway connecting Ho Chi Minh City with Phnom Penh along the trans-Asian route, marked by two major border gates, Moc Bai and Xa Mat, which stand as proof of its crucial role as a frontier region.
During the historic resistance wars, Tay Ninh was a steadfast stronghold, carrying many key strategic responsibilities. Its forests, rivers, and even the red-soil roads still bear the memories of those challenging years of struggle.
The Central Bureau of Southern Vietnam base lies hidden within the Chang Riec forest, once serving as the headquarters of the Southern revolutionary leadership for a long period of time.
But Tay Ninh is not only tied to war, its history has also been written through the everyday lives of generations of residents. It is found in the rhythm of plowing the rice fields, the cheerful laughter at the riverside market of Vam Co Dong, and the resilience of the people during the days of reclaiming and cultivating new land.
Today, when setting foot in Tay Ninh, one can still feel the vitality of the past in every historical site, in the centuries-old trees marked by time, and in the simple, peaceful villages.
The land where the sun burns the skin forges the resilience of Tay Ninh’s people.
There is a saying, “The sun in Tay Ninh burns the skin,” passed down from generation to generation. It reflects not only the region’s scorching climate but also leaves a lasting impression on those who have set foot on this land. The sunlight here is not harsh in bursts but persistent, seeping into the skin and into the soil. Visitors often remark that Tay Ninh carries its own harshness, yet it is precisely this that has shaped the resilience and strength of its people.
The locals are accustomed to working from early morning, enduring the fields under the sun, then returning in the evening to gather around a simple family meal. In its own way, the sun and wind have nurtured both the endurance and the gentle nature found in every person here.
People are the embodiment of Tay Ninh itself, simple yet strong, resilient yet full of patience and endurance.
The cultural harmony and iconic architecture of Tay Ninh
If history is a steady current, then culture is the palette of colors that shapes the soul of this land. Tay Ninh is distinguished by architectural works deeply influenced by spiritual beliefs, most notably the Tay Ninh Holy See - the center of Caodaism. This grand and colorful structure serves not only as a religious destination but also as a unique cultural symbol.
Tay Ninh’s culture is also present in its rural markets and distinctive cuisine. Here, just by stopping at a roadside stall, ordering a bowl of the local “bánh canh”, savoring boiled chicken mixed with wild banana stem salad, or sitting by a charcoal stove grilling fresh beef, one can taste the rich flavors that linger in memory, the kind that travelers carry with them far from home, as if finding themselves once more in the embrace of their homeland.
The woman of Tay Ninh and her resilient spirit
On our journey to Tay Ninh, we had the chance to meet Ms. Yen Binh, a woman born and raised on this land. Many years ago, she learned that she had cancer, yet she has always kept an optimistic spirit and strived to overcome life’s challenges. She also opens her heart to share and support others with the same illness, helping them feel that this journey is never walked alone. Perhaps it is thanks to that spirit that her health has become more stable and resilient over time.
She led us through the vast green rice fields and to Go Dau market where she was born, sharing stories of her childhood and school days. With great enthusiasm, she introduced the culture, cuisine, and people of Tay Ninh as if she were a guide for her very own homeland.
The sun in Tay Ninh is harsh, yet the trees still grow. Ms. Binh is the same; though her health has not always been perfect, she continues to wear an optimistic smile and never gives up. In her eyes, we could see the spirit of the people of Tay Ninh: gentle, hardworking, and resilient, just like the land itself.
Conclusion
As we said goodbye to Tay Ninh, we brought back more than just a few photographs. What we truly gained was the feeling of standing under its sunlight, the peace of its nature, and above all, the chance to listen to the stories of resilient people living in this borderland of the nation.
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CREDIT:
- Photography: Luan Nguyen, Kien Trang
- Content: Vy Vy
- Design: Trung Huynh